Chiang Mai: The ultimate city guide

Chiang Mai is the antidote to Bangkok. Slower, cooler, and surrounded by mountains and jungle, it's the cultural heart of northern Thailand. The old city is a maze of temples, the night markets are some of the best in the country, and the cooking classes are world-class.

Getting There

• Overnight train from Bangkok (Hua Lamphong) — 12 hours, book 1st class sleeper for the experience
• Domestic flight from Bangkok — 1 hour, Jetstar and AirAsia from ~600 THB
• Bus from Bangkok — 9–10 hours overnight, Nakhonchai Air is the best operator

Getting Around

The old city is walkable. For further distances:

• Songthaew (red trucks) — the local way; flag one down and negotiate a price
• Grab — available and reliable, cheaper than tuk-tuks
• Hire a scooter — essential for reaching Doi Inthanon and the surrounding hills

What to See & Do

• Doi Suthep — the iconic hilltop temple overlooking the city; go at sunrise
• Old City temples — Wat Chedi Luang and Wat Phra Singh are the standouts
• Sunday Walking Street — Wualai Road, best market in the city
• Night Bazaar — every night, good for browsing and cheap food
• Doi Inthanon — Thailand's highest peak, stunning waterfalls and birdwatching
• Thai Elephant Care Center — ethical elephant sanctuary, book in advance

Cooking Classes

Chiang Mai is the best place in Thailand to do a Thai cooking class. Most include a market visit and cover 4–5 dishes. A half-day class costs around 1,000–1,500 THB and is one of the best value experiences in the country.

Trekking

The hills around Chiang Mai are excellent for trekking. Most guesthouses can arrange 1–3 day treks into the jungle with hill tribe village visits. Go in November to February for the best weather. Avoid March to May when smoke from field burning fills the valley.

Give Chiang Mai at least four days. Most people wish they'd stayed longer.

Where to Eat

• Khao Soi — northern Thailand's signature dish, a rich coconut curry noodle soup; Khao Soi Khun Yai is the local favourite
• Sai Oua — northern Thai sausage, available at every market
• Nimman Road — trendy café and restaurant strip, good for brunch
• Warorot Market — the local fresh market, best for cheap northern Thai food