Koh Rong Samloem: Saracen Bay and not much else

Koh Rong Samloem is the quiet half of the pair: one long crescent of white sand at Saracen Bay, a scatter of bungalows behind it, wooden piers out into water clear enough to count fish from, and almost nothing to do. People come for three nights and spend them swimming, reading and watching the light change.

The Beaches

• Saracen Bay — the main beach on the east side, where the ferries land and most places to stay are
• Lazy Beach — over the ridge on the west side, a 25-minute jungle walk, and the sunset side
• Sunset Beach — further along the west coast, rustic and near-empty
• M'Pai Bay — a small fishing village in the north with the island's little backpacker scene
• The jungle paths between them are unlit and root-crossed, so carry a torch if you'll return after dark

What to Do

• Snorkelling straight off the pier and the rocks at either end of the bay
• Diving — there are a couple of schools, with courses cheaper than Thailand and quieter sites
• Plankton swims after dark, best on a moonless night
• Kayaks from most guesthouses, and a long flat bay to paddle
• The walk to Lazy Beach for sunset, then back with a torch

Practicalities

• Ferries from Sihanoukville take about 45 minutes, some continuing to Koh Rong
• There are no proper roads, just dusty tracks and jungle paths, so you get around by hiking or by boat
• Electricity is often generator-fed and switched off overnight; fans stop, so pack for warm nights
• There are no ATMs on the island — bring all the cash you'll need
• Food is mostly guesthouse restaurants, and prices are higher than the mainland since everything arrives by boat
• Book ahead in December and January, when the bay fills up

Three nights, and take a book. The island's whole appeal is that there is nothing to tick off, and people who arrive with a plan tend to abandon it by lunchtime.