Edinburgh: Castles, whisky and a hill in the middle

Edinburgh is built on volcanic rock, which is why a castle sits on a crag above the shops and why you can climb a proper hill without leaving the city. The Old Town's closes and stairways are medieval; the New Town next door is Georgian and gridded. It's compact enough to see on foot in two days, and quietly one of the best-looking cities in Europe.

Getting Around

• The centre is walkable, though it is built on hills and you will feel them
• Trams run from the airport to the centre in about half an hour; buses are cheaper and nearly as quick
• Trains reach Glasgow in 50 minutes, London in about 4.5 hours, and the Highlands via Inverness
• Buses cover the city well; pay contactless or with exact change

What to See

• Edinburgh Castle — book ahead; the crown jewels and the one o'clock gun are the highlights
• The Royal Mile — walk it early before the tour groups, and duck into the closes off it
• Arthur's Seat — a 45-minute climb to the best view in the city; windy at the top, always
• Holyrood Palace at the bottom of the Mile, and the Scottish Parliament opposite
• National Museum of Scotland — free, huge and better than it needs to be
• Dean Village and the Water of Leith — a green walk minutes from the centre
• Calton Hill — monuments and the classic skyline photograph at sunset

August and the Fringe

For most of August the city hosts the Fringe, the world's largest arts festival, plus the International Festival and the Tattoo. The place is transformed: thousands of shows, many free or pay-what-you-want, and streets full of performers. It also means accommodation costs two to three times the normal rate and books up months ahead. Come for it deliberately, or avoid August entirely.

Where to Eat and Drink

• Haggis, neeps and tatties — better than its reputation, and the vegetarian version is common
• Scotch pies and bridies from bakeries, the cheap local lunch
• Seafood from the east coast, especially at the Leith end of town
• Whisky bars with long lists and staff happy to guide you; a dram of something Islay is the local education
• Day trips: Rosslyn Chapel, the Forth bridges, Stirling Castle, or Loch Lomond

Pack a waterproof whatever the forecast says. The weather here changes hourly, and locals treat sunshine as a rumour rather than a plan.