Fukuoka: Kyushu's friendly food capital

Fukuoka is the largest city on Kyushu and the most underrated big city in Japan. It's compact, friendly, food-obsessed, and has a relaxed pace you don't get in Tokyo or Osaka. For most travellers, Fukuoka is either the start or end of a southern Japan loop.

Getting There

• Fukuoka Airport (FUK) — one of the most central airports in the world, 5 minutes by subway to Hakata Station
• Shinkansen — Hakata is the western terminus of the Sanyo line; 5 hours from Tokyo, 2.5 hours from Osaka
• Ferry — overnight ferries to Busan (South Korea) leave from Hakata Port

What to Do

• Yatai — riverside food stalls along the Naka river; the most atmospheric way to eat in Japan
• Hakata ramen — the city's tonkotsu pork-bone broth invented this style; Ichiran's flagship is here
• Ohori Park — central pond and walking circuit, great for a morning run
• Canal City Hakata — iconic shopping mall with hourly fountain shows
• Fukuoka Tower — sunset views over the bay
• Day trip to Dazaifu — Tenmangu shrine and starbucks designed by Kengo Kuma

Where to Eat

• Tonkotsu ramen — Hakata Issou, Shin Shin, and Ichiran are all worth a visit
• Motsunabe — offal hot pot, a Fukuoka speciality
• Mentaiko — spicy cod roe, best as onigiri or with rice
• Yatai stalls — try Tenjin or Nakasu for the classic experience

Two nights is enough for the city itself. Add a third if you want a day trip out to Dazaifu, Yanagawa, or further into Kyushu.