Hiroshima: Peace memorial and the gateway to Miyajima

Hiroshima is one of Japan's most quietly powerful cities. The Peace Memorial Park is essential and sobering. Just offshore, the island of Miyajima offers some of the most photogenic scenery in the country. Together they make a perfect 1–2 day stop on any Japan itinerary.

Getting There

• Shinkansen — 1.5 hours from Osaka, 4 hours from Tokyo on the Sanyo line
• Local trains — JR Sanyo line connects Hiroshima Station to Miyajimaguchi (~25 minutes)
• Trams — Hiroshima's vintage streetcars are still the best way around the city centre

What to See

• Peace Memorial Park and Museum — give yourself at least half a day; it's a heavy and important visit
• A-Bomb Dome — the preserved skeletal ruin at the hypocentre
• Miyajima — the floating torii of Itsukushima Shrine, deer roaming the streets, Mt Misen hike
• Hiroshima Castle — reconstructed but worth the short visit
• Shukkei-en Garden — small landscape garden near the castle
• Mazda Museum — for car-heads, must be booked in advance

Where to Eat

• Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki — layered with noodles, very different from Osaka's; Okonomi-mura has 25 stalls in one building
• Oysters — Hiroshima Bay produces around 60% of Japan's oysters
• Anago meshi — grilled saltwater eel over rice, a Miyajima specialty
• Momiji manju — maple leaf-shaped cakes, the local omiyage

Stay overnight on Miyajima if you can. The island empties out after the last ferry and the torii is at its best at sunrise and sunset with no crowds.