Ninh Binh: Ha Long Bay on land

Ninh Binh is what Ha Long Bay would look like if you drained the sea and planted rice: the same limestone towers, rising straight out of paddy fields and rivers. It's two hours from Hanoi and most people come for a day, which is a shame — the valleys are best early and late, when the tour buses have gone and the light is low.

The Boat Trips

Two options, and they're genuinely different. Trang An is the longer, quieter route, passing through flooded caves and temples on a two to three hour circuit — it's the one to choose. Tam Coc is shorter, prettier in the harvest season when the rice is gold, but pushier about extra payments. Rowers on both often row with their feet, which is a sight in itself, and a tip at the end is customary.

What Else to Do

• Hang Mua — around 500 steps to a dragon statue on a peak, and the classic view over the valley; go at sunrise or late afternoon
• Hoa Lu — Vietnam's capital in the 10th and 11th centuries, with temples to the Dinh and Le dynasties
• Bai Dinh Pagoda — an enormous modern Buddhist complex, impressive in scale rather than age
• Bich Dong — a three-tier pagoda built into a cliff, usually far quieter
• Cycling — the flat lanes between karsts and paddies are the best way to spend an afternoon
• Cuc Phuong National Park — Vietnam's first, with a primate rescue centre, an hour away

Where to Eat and Stay

• Goat meat (de nui) is the local speciality, served grilled or with fresh rice paper
• Com chay — crispy burnt rice, usually with a meat sauce
• Tam Coc village has the most guesthouses and restaurants; Trang An is quieter
• Homestays among the karsts are cheap and often family-run, with bikes included
• Ninh Binh city itself is functional rather than charming — stay out in the valley

Stay two nights. The difference between Ninh Binh as a day trip and Ninh Binh at dawn, cycling empty lanes between the karsts, is the whole point of coming.