Phong Nha: Caves, karst and the Duck Stop

Phong Nha sits against a national park of limestone riddled with some of the largest caves on earth, including Son Doong, big enough to hold a city block. It's a small village with a big backpacker scene, surrounded by countryside that is genuinely lovely to ride through — and where a farm that lets you feed a hundred ducks has become one of the most popular stops in Vietnam.

The Caves

• Paradise Cave — enormous and beautifully lit, with a wooden walkway; the easiest big cave to visit
• Phong Nha Cave — entered by boat up the river, which is half the experience
• Dark Cave — zipline in, swim, and wade through a mud bath; the adventurous option
• Hang En — the world's third largest cave, on an overnight trek with camping inside the entrance
• Son Doong — the largest cave on earth, a multi-day expedition run by a single licensed operator, booked far in advance and costing thousands of dollars
• Caves close in the wet season when water levels rise, roughly from October to December

The Bong Lai Valley

A loop of farms and small bars in the valley behind the village, usually done by scooter over an afternoon. The Duck Stop is the best known: a farm where a hundred ducks swarm over your feet for a handful of feed, with a water buffalo ride thrown in. There's a bamboo 'monkey bridge' to cross, a pub famous for cold beer at the end of a dirt track, and not much traffic in between.

Getting There and Around

• Night buses and trains run to Dong Hoi, then it's about 45 minutes inland to the village
• Sleeper buses also come direct from Hue (4-5 hours) and Ninh Binh
• A scooter is how everyone gets around; the countryside roads are quiet and well surfaced
• The village is small enough to walk end to end in ten minutes

Where to Eat and Stay

• The village has a concentrated run of hostels, bars and restaurants aimed squarely at backpackers
• Homestays out in the fields are quieter, cheaper, and a short ride from town
• Local specialities are simple: grilled pork, noodle soups and river fish
• Cash is useful — card acceptance is patchy outside the main hostels

Two nights covers a big cave and the valley loop. Three lets you add Hang En, which is the one people talk about years later.